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by
Dan Perkins
Located
along the River Thames, in the
fashionable section of London known as Chelsea, is
Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon, an upscale restaurant specializing in French
Country cuisine. The restaurant is the
latest in a long and continuous line of food
establishments to occupy the 500 year old
structure. The current
incarnation is the brain-child of Ray Duhaney,
a dashing young man of Jamaican descent who loves
bringing innovation and diversity to the food and
beverage industry. As the brasserie's
director, Duhaney oversees everything - the
selection of the staff, the menu and wine list,
and even the decor. After sampling an
incredible meal prepared by head chef Franck
Lebiez, a celebrated culinary master from
Normandy, France, I decided to sit down with
Duhaney to learn of his life's journey, his vision
for the brasserie and his experiences as a black
businessman in London.
I
dined with friends at Cheyne Walk Brasserie
& Salon (The Brasserie), and everyone
concluded that it was a sensational dining
experience. But I found The Brasserie worth noting
not only for its food and location, but also for
its management. The Brasserie is under the
direction of Ray Duhaney, a smart and
personable young black Londoner of West Indian
descent. Duhaney represents a growing number of
West Indians who are succeeding in many of London’s
most visible establishments and prized industries.
But their success has not come overnight, nor has
it come without a fair amount of hardship. Like
many other successful black Londoners, Duhaney has
had to overcome his share of difficulties.
Ray Duhaney isn’t sure of the origins of his
family name. He thinks it might refer to a French
individual or family, or possibly to a town in
France. Most of the individuals he knows with the
Duhaney name are from Jamaica. His own mother was
born in Cuba, but raised in Jamaica. His
biological father is half-Jamaican and
half-Chinese.
Duhaney was born in north London, in Suffolk to
be exact, and he is proud of being raised
Catholic. During his childhood, his mother became
a single parent, and for a short while she went on
welfare. "My brothers, sisters and I looked
after each other," said Duhaney. "We
pulled each other up, went to school, did the
whole thing." Duhaney left school when he was
sixteen, and never completed his A-levels (the
equivalent of high school in America). Duhaney isn’t
bashful about his childhood, in fact, he jokingly
boasts of completing his own levels instead of his
A-levels. "I’ve got a few levels," he
said with a telling grin.
Although Duhaney left school early, he was not
drawn to life on the streets. Instead, he went to
work. "Work for me was about enjoying life.
If I enjoyed it, I did it. If I didn’t enjoy it,
I didn’t do it," said Duhaney.
His first job involved working for an
unscrupulous Nigerian businessman who owned an
insurance company. "We were supposed to get
about 1,000 pounds for every 10,000 pounds per
month of mortgage or pension plan we sold,"
recalled Duhaney. "When payday came, he didn’t
pay us. So my dad had a conversation with him and
he paid me my money, and I left." That was
Duhaney’s first and last experience working
outside the food and entertainment industry.
Next, Duhaney began working as a bus boy in a
club called the Embassy Nightclub. In the
early eighties, it was a place where many of
England’s A-list rockers gathered. Later, he
found work at Royal Albert Hall, England’s
premiere concert hall. There, he held several
positions and learned many of the skills that
would later contributed to his success in the food
and beverage industry.
Duhaney then found work at several wine bars
and he began to develop a passion for wine. He
eventually became the general manager of a wine
bar in one of London’s upscale hotels. It was
Duhaney’s first management job and he found it
both fun and challenging. "For two years, it
was mad fun, but a lot of responsibility for a 22
year old," said Duhaney.
When he turned 23, Duhaney traveled to America
and began working on a cruise ship based out of
Fort Lauderdale, Florida. He considers it one of
the best experiences of his life. Far from home,
Duhaney learned to be independent and
self-reliant. The demands of working on a cruise
ship also taught him self-discipline. "When
you’re on a cruise ship, you work every single
day," recalled Duhaney. "For nine months
I worked with no days off. It sounds horrifying,
but when you actually do it, you don’t think
about it. You learn to value time and to
appreciate the importance of family."
Working on a cruise ship also taught Duhaney
how to work with a wide range of customers.
"Imagine serving the same people five times a
day, every day. When we went down to South
America, we served the same people for 47 days. I
began to understand that I was in an environment
where there is no race, color, or creed - just
people who want food and drink and want to be
served well."
Finding
Real Possibilities with Food and Drink
Duhaney believes the food and beverage industry
is one of the few industries where anyone can
excel – even individuals with limited formal
education and training. "There are certain
industries where there will always be
barriers," said Duhaney. "But in this
industry – food and drink – it’s about
people. For me, it’s the only industry where
there is no discrimination. The only
discrimination is how good you are. If you’re
good at what you do, you can get somewhere. If you’re
not, then you don’t, and you leave it."
Although Duhaney cherishes the opportunities
available in the industry, he is keenly aware that
for many blacks, the food and beverage industry
holds disturbing links to servitude. "When we
talk about service, it’s such a hard thing,
especially being black. There’s the whole
subservient view of this industry. When I was
younger, I was called all sorts of names by all
sorts of people, including my black friends. My
friend’s reaction really puzzled me, but it made
me realize that for them, stereotypes and
identities and labels are massively important, but
to me, they are not so important," said
Duhaney.
Today, Duhaney uses his sense of individuality
and self-confidence to forge a winning team among
a diverse and international group of employees
that work at Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon.
"What I do with all the guys I work with is
(take that stereotype stuff) and turn it on its
head. I don’t care if you’re black, white,
green – whatever – it doesn’t make any
difference as long as you are good at what you do.
As long as we can understand what you say, and the
customers like you, that’s it, that’s the
bottom line," said Duhaney.
The diverse team assembled by Duhaney reflects
a blend of old and new, which is an integral part
of the entire theme at The Brasserie.
Setting
Higher Standards
The building where The Brasserie is located
dates back several centuries, and according to
Duhaney, has always housed a food and drink
establishment. "Back in the 15th
century, this place was a pub called the King’s
Head and Eight Bells," said Duhaney.
"It was called that was because King Edward
VIII used to come up the River Thames, get off the
boat and come in here for ale and food. When it
was time for the king to go – because the tide
was running low - they used to ring the bell eight
times."
The current owner of the property is a
gentleman who loves French cuisine. He created a
restaurant, which - according
to Duhaney - played up the theme of a French country
cottage with an open fireplace. In May 2003,
Duhaney came on board and took the theme to its
current level. "What was here before was very
rustic, very French, but Londoners like things
that they can easily associate with," said
Duhaney. "I came along and changed the name,
and the environment now caters to the affluence
and aspirations of our clients. It’s very
comfortable, very relaxed, and very private –
everything for the person who wants to enjoy
really good food without paying sensational
prices."
To elevate the French country theme, Duhaney
brought in Frank Lebiez from Normandy,
France. Lebiez is The Brasserie’s head chef, and
he performs culinary magic in front of a large
open fireplace, in full view of patrons. The
dining room is filled with the hearty aroma of
grilled food. A long, spirited fire sizzles and
glows as Lebiez places various cuts of lamb, beef,
chicken and seafood onto the open grill. The grill
itself spans the length of the large, open-faced
fireplace, which is located in the center of the
first floor dining area. The location of the
fireplace helps The Brasserie retain its French
country charm, but the environment is clearly more
contemporary and upscale than rustic. Lively
selections of Euro-jazz are piped in at a
comfortable volume and the music mixes well with
the sounds of the open grill and lively
conversations. I found that the music gave The
Brasserie a vibrant, yet intimate feel. "We
now have the best of both worlds," declared
Duhaney.
Building
on Life's Lessons
Prior to joining the Brasserie, Duhaney,
maintained an independent consulting practice that
catered to London’s food and drink industry. The
company, Duhaney Concepts Limited, remains
active and Duhaney often participates in industry
conferences and seminars.
Duhaney is most proud of helping to establish
the Ten Room in Piccadilly Circus, where he
served as operations manager. "The Ten Room
is the definitive lounge bar," declared
Duhaney. The lounge has reported served such
luminaries as Michael Jordan, Rod Stewart, Puff
Daddy, Maria Carrie, The Spice Girls and others.
"I’m known for creating environments that
people love," said Duhaney.
In early 2003, a friend asked
Duhaney if he would assist the owner of the
restaurant that is now The Brasserie. The
two men met and instantly liked each other. The
owner was intrigued with Duhaney's
vision and drive and he invited him to become a
partner and the director of his establishment.
Duhaney is a practicing Buddhist and believes
good karma surrounds his current business
partnerships and the restaurant. He also believes
his current position represents a fulfillment - of
sorts - of the journey he began when he started
working. "After working in the industry for
twenty years, you like to think that eventually
the circle comes around, that you end up in a
great place that brings you to yet another great
beginning. That’s what has happened for me since
I’ve come to the Cheyne Walk Brasserie &
Salon. I think I’m fortunate to have met the
right person, at the right place, in the right
time," said Duhaney.
When it comes to making the Cheyne Walk
Brasserie & Salon a success, Duhaney relies on
many of the lessons he learned early on in the
industry. "I employ people from all
backgrounds and I believe in giving everybody the
chance to succeed," said Duhaney.
Another lesson learned early on is to provide
great service without an attitude. "It’s
simple, really," said Duhaney. "It’s
about making the customer feel good."
Giving others the chance to succeed is an
aspect of the job that Duhaney really enjoys.
Eleven years ago, he met an aspiring young actor
named Treva Sealy while he was tending bar
at a place called Oxygen in London. The two
men became friends. And even though Sealy eventually
moved on to some of London’s trendiest
restaurants and bars, the two remained in
touch. When Duhaney assumed directorship at Cheyne
Walk Brasserie & Salon, he invited Sealy to
join him.
In addition to tending bar, Sealy is also an
actor and a teacher. He fuses the two passions
together by teaching young people in London’s
schools how to use acting to build self-confidence
and self-esteem. Sealy, who is also of West Indian
ancestry, represents a growing number of black
Londoners who are giving back to those less
fortunate.
Finding
Success in London
When asked whether London was a good place for
people of African descent to do business, Duhaney
gave a qualified response. "While I can paint
a very positive picture based on my own
experience, fifteen to twenty years ago, there was
a lot of negativity towards young black guys
following the riots in Brixton. "I made it
because I did what my father taught me to do, and
that is, stoop to conquer. But that doesn’t mean
you lie on the floor and let people walk all over
you," said Duhaney. "Today, in London,
there are black people who are at the top of their
game in many fields. While there’s still some
negativity, I think London is into people who are
positive and good at what they do. It’s fertile
ground for people with imagination and integrity
– for people who want to achieve more."
Although Duhaney has prospered in the food and
beverage industry, he plans to retire at an early
age, 42, in order to concentrate on his writing.
Duhaney became interested in writing as a child,
and he continues to write lyrics and poetry for
friends and for himself. He intends to write his
first novel within the next two years, but his
immediate focus in on his family. Duhaney will
become a father for the first time this spring,
and he is looking to the future with great
anticipation. He believes he has a lot to give to
his child, including a strong sense of
independence, integrity and identity. He also has
a great deal he wants to share with others through
his writing. "I want to write based on
personal experiences," said Duhaney. "I
want to do something that’s honest and
positive."
Given his background and accomplishments,
Duhaney is likely to serve up something that is
both tasteful and satisfying.
The
End
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