This article originally appeared in the December 2003 edition of diversityinbusiness.com

Copyright 2004 by GENLIGHT Por EL, Inc.  All rights reserved.
Unless otherwise noted, all photos and graphic images are copyrighted property of GENLIGHT Por EL, Inc. and may not be used without written consent.  All rights reserved.

 

by Dan Perkins

Located along the River Thames, in the fashionable section of London known as Chelsea, is Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon, an upscale restaurant specializing in French Country cuisine.  The restaurant is the latest in a long and continuous line of food establishments to occupy the 500 year old structure.  The current incarnation is the brain-child of Ray Duhaney, a dashing young man of Jamaican descent who loves bringing innovation and diversity to the food and beverage industry.  As the brasserie's director, Duhaney oversees everything - the selection of the staff, the menu and wine list, and even the decor.  After sampling an incredible meal prepared by head chef Franck Lebiez, a celebrated culinary master from Normandy, France, I decided to sit down with Duhaney to learn of his life's journey, his vision for the brasserie and his experiences as a black businessman in London.

I dined with friends at Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon (The Brasserie), and everyone concluded that it was a sensational dining experience. But I found The Brasserie worth noting not only for its food and location, but also for its management. The Brasserie is under the direction of Ray Duhaney, a smart and personable young black Londoner of West Indian descent. Duhaney represents a growing number of West Indians who are succeeding in many of London’s most visible establishments and prized industries. But their success has not come overnight, nor has it come without a fair amount of hardship. Like many other successful black Londoners, Duhaney has had to overcome his share of difficulties.

Ray Duhaney isn’t sure of the origins of his family name. He thinks it might refer to a French individual or family, or possibly to a town in France. Most of the individuals he knows with the Duhaney name are from Jamaica. His own mother was born in Cuba, but raised in Jamaica. His biological father is half-Jamaican and half-Chinese.

Duhaney was born in north London, in Suffolk to be exact, and he is proud of being raised Catholic. During his childhood, his mother became a single parent, and for a short while she went on welfare. "My brothers, sisters and I looked after each other," said Duhaney. "We pulled each other up, went to school, did the whole thing." Duhaney left school when he was sixteen, and never completed his A-levels (the equivalent of high school in America). Duhaney isn’t bashful about his childhood, in fact, he jokingly boasts of completing his own levels instead of his A-levels. "I’ve got a few levels," he said with a telling grin.

Although Duhaney left school early, he was not drawn to life on the streets. Instead, he went to work. "Work for me was about enjoying life. If I enjoyed it, I did it. If I didn’t enjoy it, I didn’t do it," said Duhaney.

His first job involved working for an unscrupulous Nigerian businessman who owned an insurance company. "We were supposed to get about 1,000 pounds for every 10,000 pounds per month of mortgage or pension plan we sold," recalled Duhaney. "When payday came, he didn’t pay us. So my dad had a conversation with him and he paid me my money, and I left." That was Duhaney’s first and last experience working outside the food and entertainment industry.

Next, Duhaney began working as a bus boy in a club called the Embassy Nightclub. In the early eighties, it was a place where many of England’s A-list rockers gathered. Later, he found work at Royal Albert Hall, England’s premiere concert hall. There, he held several positions and learned many of the skills that would later contributed to his success in the food and beverage industry.

Duhaney then found work at several wine bars and he began to develop a passion for wine. He eventually became the general manager of a wine bar in one of London’s upscale hotels. It was Duhaney’s first management job and he found it both fun and challenging. "For two years, it was mad fun, but a lot of responsibility for a 22 year old," said Duhaney.

When he turned 23, Duhaney traveled to America and began working on a cruise ship based out of Fort Lauderdale, Florida. He considers it one of the best experiences of his life. Far from home, Duhaney learned to be independent and self-reliant. The demands of working on a cruise ship also taught him self-discipline. "When you’re on a cruise ship, you work every single day," recalled Duhaney. "For nine months I worked with no days off. It sounds horrifying, but when you actually do it, you don’t think about it. You learn to value time and to appreciate the importance of family."

Working on a cruise ship also taught Duhaney how to work with a wide range of customers. "Imagine serving the same people five times a day, every day. When we went down to South America, we served the same people for 47 days. I began to understand that I was in an environment where there is no race, color, or creed - just people who want food and drink and want to be served well."

Finding Real Possibilities with Food and Drink

Duhaney believes the food and beverage industry is one of the few industries where anyone can excel – even individuals with limited formal education and training. "There are certain industries where there will always be barriers," said Duhaney. "But in this industry – food and drink – it’s about people. For me, it’s the only industry where there is no discrimination. The only discrimination is how good you are. If you’re good at what you do, you can get somewhere. If you’re not, then you don’t, and you leave it."

Although Duhaney cherishes the opportunities available in the industry, he is keenly aware that for many blacks, the food and beverage industry holds disturbing links to servitude. "When we talk about service, it’s such a hard thing, especially being black. There’s the whole subservient view of this industry. When I was younger, I was called all sorts of names by all sorts of people, including my black friends. My friend’s reaction really puzzled me, but it made me realize that for them, stereotypes and identities and labels are massively important, but to me, they are not so important," said Duhaney.

Today, Duhaney uses his sense of individuality and self-confidence to forge a winning team among a diverse and international group of employees that work at Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon. "What I do with all the guys I work with is (take that stereotype stuff) and turn it on its head. I don’t care if you’re black, white, green – whatever – it doesn’t make any difference as long as you are good at what you do. As long as we can understand what you say, and the customers like you, that’s it, that’s the bottom line," said Duhaney.

The diverse team assembled by Duhaney reflects a blend of old and new, which is an integral part of the entire theme at The Brasserie.

Setting Higher Standards

The building where The Brasserie is located dates back several centuries, and according to Duhaney, has always housed a food and drink establishment. "Back in the 15th century, this place was a pub called the King’s Head and Eight Bells," said Duhaney. "It was called that was because King Edward VIII used to come up the River Thames, get off the boat and come in here for ale and food. When it was time for the king to go – because the tide was running low - they used to ring the bell eight times."

The current owner of the property is a gentleman who loves French cuisine. He created a restaurant, which - according to Duhaney - played up the theme of a French country cottage with an open fireplace. In May 2003, Duhaney came on board and took the theme to its current level. "What was here before was very rustic, very French, but Londoners like things that they can easily associate with," said Duhaney. "I came along and changed the name, and the environment now caters to the affluence and aspirations of our clients. It’s very comfortable, very relaxed, and very private – everything for the person who wants to enjoy really good food without paying sensational prices."

To elevate the French country theme, Duhaney brought in Frank Lebiez from Normandy, France. Lebiez is The Brasserie’s head chef, and he performs culinary magic in front of a large open fireplace, in full view of patrons. The dining room is filled with the hearty aroma of grilled food. A long, spirited fire sizzles and glows as Lebiez places various cuts of lamb, beef, chicken and seafood onto the open grill. The grill itself spans the length of the large, open-faced fireplace, which is located in the center of the first floor dining area. The location of the fireplace helps The Brasserie retain its French country charm, but the environment is clearly more contemporary and upscale than rustic. Lively selections of Euro-jazz are piped in at a comfortable volume and the music mixes well with the sounds of the open grill and lively conversations. I found that the music gave The Brasserie a vibrant, yet intimate feel. "We now have the best of both worlds," declared Duhaney.

Building on Life's Lessons

Prior to joining the Brasserie, Duhaney, maintained an independent consulting practice that catered to London’s food and drink industry. The company, Duhaney Concepts Limited, remains active and Duhaney often participates in industry conferences and seminars.

Duhaney is most proud of helping to establish the Ten Room in Piccadilly Circus, where he served as operations manager. "The Ten Room is the definitive lounge bar," declared Duhaney. The lounge has reported served such luminaries as Michael Jordan, Rod Stewart, Puff Daddy, Maria Carrie, The Spice Girls and others. "I’m known for creating environments that people love," said Duhaney.

In early 2003, a friend asked Duhaney if he would assist the owner of the restaurant that is now The Brasserie. The two men met and instantly liked each other. The owner was intrigued with Duhaney's vision and drive and he invited him to become a partner and the director of his establishment.

Duhaney is a practicing Buddhist and believes good karma surrounds his current business partnerships and the restaurant. He also believes his current position represents a fulfillment - of sorts - of the journey he began when he started working. "After working in the industry for twenty years, you like to think that eventually the circle comes around, that you end up in a great place that brings you to yet another great beginning. That’s what has happened for me since I’ve come to the Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon. I think I’m fortunate to have met the right person, at the right place, in the right time," said Duhaney.

When it comes to making the Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon a success, Duhaney relies on many of the lessons he learned early on in the industry. "I employ people from all backgrounds and I believe in giving everybody the chance to succeed," said Duhaney.

Another lesson learned early on is to provide great service without an attitude. "It’s simple, really," said Duhaney. "It’s about making the customer feel good."

Giving others the chance to succeed is an aspect of the job that Duhaney really enjoys. Eleven years ago, he met an aspiring young actor named Treva Sealy while he was tending bar at a place called Oxygen in London. The two men became friends. And even though Sealy eventually moved on to some of London’s trendiest restaurants and bars, the two remained in touch. When Duhaney assumed directorship at Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon, he invited Sealy to join him.

In addition to tending bar, Sealy is also an actor and a teacher. He fuses the two passions together by teaching young people in London’s schools how to use acting to build self-confidence and self-esteem. Sealy, who is also of West Indian ancestry, represents a growing number of black Londoners who are giving back to those less fortunate.

Finding Success in London

When asked whether London was a good place for people of African descent to do business, Duhaney gave a qualified response. "While I can paint a very positive picture based on my own experience, fifteen to twenty years ago, there was a lot of negativity towards young black guys following the riots in Brixton. "I made it because I did what my father taught me to do, and that is, stoop to conquer. But that doesn’t mean you lie on the floor and let people walk all over you," said Duhaney. "Today, in London, there are black people who are at the top of their game in many fields. While there’s still some negativity, I think London is into people who are positive and good at what they do. It’s fertile ground for people with imagination and integrity – for people who want to achieve more."

Although Duhaney has prospered in the food and beverage industry, he plans to retire at an early age, 42, in order to concentrate on his writing. Duhaney became interested in writing as a child, and he continues to write lyrics and poetry for friends and for himself. He intends to write his first novel within the next two years, but his immediate focus in on his family. Duhaney will become a father for the first time this spring, and he is looking to the future with great anticipation. He believes he has a lot to give to his child, including a strong sense of independence, integrity and identity. He also has a great deal he wants to share with others through his writing. "I want to write based on personal experiences," said Duhaney. "I want to do something that’s honest and positive."

Given his background and accomplishments, Duhaney is likely to serve up something that is both tasteful and satisfying.

The End


No organization can succeed without an effective team, and in the restaurant business, no team member is more important than the chef and the bartender.  Stop by the Cheyne Walk Brasserie & Salon on a weekend night and order up a drink, and you'll sample the incredible wizardry of Treva Sealy.  He's the distinguished gentleman in perpetual motion behind the restaurant's secluded bar.  Whether its crushing ice for a drink, cleaning glasses or organizing the countertop, Sealy exudes an quiet, but focused intensity that suggests a deep passion for life.   Sealy is committed to his fiancée, his acting career and to helping young children growing up in families with limited economic means.  


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